Last post by nitto999 - September 18, 2018, 05:04:54 pm
I recently picked up a Z800 003 rev workstation with dual 5675 Xeons. I cleaned it up and powered it on. Soon after I heard 8 beeps, followed by a long beep and then the Boot Lock Emergency screen. I flashed the 3.60 rev A bios, however it would just loop again into the Boot Lock screen. So I did some more reading and I put a jumper on the E15 Crisis Jumper.. now it won't read my USB stick and the fans never turn down from full bore like they did previously. I'm afraid I wiped the bios chip completely. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
Last post by fisk - September 11, 2018, 06:33:55 am
New user on the forum and new owner of a bargain HP Z800 002 in HP case(850w psu), boot block date 01-30-09.
did the HP bios update through HP's Windows tool (v3.61) and now running 2x X5650 without further mods. so far boots up every time.
build breakdown HP Z800 with 2x X5550 and 40gb picked up @~£110 16gb extra ram (was cheaper than just buying 8 ) £30 2x x5570 (for safety) and 2x x5650 shipped @~£55 6x 1tb sata drives @£35 GPU nvidia 740 (free, from the stash)
now all i need is recommendation on a better cheapish GPU as it wont boot with HD6970, HD 6950, HD4890x2, GTX 280, GTX 280. im thinking something like 1050 maybe a rx560, what would be the max tpd i can use with the 850w psu
Last post by Antitrack - August 26, 2018, 05:40:53 am
Hello, I have an old but gold HP Z600 with 32GB Ram, dual X5670 CPU and a rather old Nvidia Geforce 670 graphics card. I plan to replace the graphics card with a monster triple slot card that requires 375W and 42A on the 12V line, namely, a Geforce GTX Titan Z. Yeah, probably not the wisest choice of graphics card but hey, it was a bargain!
Now, I am very well aware that the standard 650 Watt power supply unit won't do.
Has anyone been able to upgrade the power supply so it works with such a monster of a graphic card? If so, how'd you fit the new power supply unit into the case?
What would you do to upgrade the power supply properly -- how many Watts etc. do I need?
Hi Animajosser, Impressive, i am trying the same thing on my z800 bord with a corrupt bios after i changed by mistake NUMA settings, basically unsolder the onboard bios chip , and replace with an after market SST25VF016B-50-4C-S2AF chip, reprogramed with the CH341A of aliexpress and Andy's Bios Image , then re-solder onboard. but for some reason impossible to rewirte the chip, i tried the trick of connecting differently to the CH341A (180 degree rotation for pins) to read and write but i always comme accross "operation timed out" error messages and i m stuck. any idea ?
In case somebody try to repeat process stated in main article and will go this far to read. This info can save you a good PSU or MOBO, just your luck decides what will burn if do things wrong. And this can be related to lot of other brand PCs, Z600 definitely too, lot of HPs and some DELLs maybe.
!!! NEVER CONNECT 5V (pins 1 and 10, direct on one side of 18 pin connector) FROM 18 PIN MAIN POWER TO YOUR PSU OUTPUT !!! Just because that's not a power input, but output from DC-DC converter on board. To power HDDs, I guess. If your PSU is modern and have separate DC-DC converters for 5 and 3.3V and you connect it to that 5V - sooner or later something will die. Your PSU or board. And it will happen anyway. If it's something older with ferrites-based stabilization - ok, PSU most likely can withstand this, but I will not sure about board. Just because it's very bad idea to connect different switching power supplies in parallel, without synchronization, without balancing load (just thick wires in this case - not enough), especially two push-pull DC-DC based on MOSFETS (just like one already present on board). What to do right? Just not connect that 5V to ATX PSU in any way. You don't need it. Your drives will get power from another place.
About memory 5V power - I'll think it's better to feed it from 5Vsb (if you have it power enough) or at least via schottky diodes to not get current back to your PSU in any way (and potentially get not working some sleep modes).
How update bootblock ? I'm surprised that lot of people was looking for right rev.003 full image, not looking what we have - a /B option for DOS flasher. Just used it and my bootblock became a new one with 2018 BIOS version in some time. And - process look really long and looks like it hang. For more than minute. No progress, no numlock reaction - nothing. Don't panic, read what you have on screen, all fine, obey and go make some tea and not look on this f***ing thing - and it will end and be ok.
About other stuff (F1 warnings, right type speaker, ambient temperature sensor) - here is some pictures how to make it think all is fine. Just needed two fans of any type (3-4pins) for front and rear. https://imgur.com/a/Yhf95RC Yep, that's chieftec LBX/LCX chassis, board fit there good enough, but will need few extra holes for HPTX standoffs and some metal cut out for fit power connector and maybe one side of COM port.
In text brief: USB 8+10 | Front Audio 2+4 | 1394 11+12 (and pull out pin 11 to use default case header) Rear fans 3+5 | Mem fans - thke both TACH and solder it to pin 3 of front fan 2 (2nd show itself in BIOS monitor, 1st - not, so I choose 2nd).
Front panel 2+4 Power LED - put there 2pin opposite dual color LED matching your case size. Just for errors indication. Simple way to see how it works - pull out video card and turn on without it. And wait few dozens of seconds.
Ambient sensor - just take TO-92 2N2222A (or any modern low-power single NPN transistor in TO-2 case without resistors inside) and connect its emitter to pin 12 and soldered together base and collector to pin 11. What profit? You will may use simple PWM case fans and it will rule them. Only PWM, here is no voltage control at all. Picture is for DELL, HP looks like have already onboard all other little stuff except transistor.
Why big speaker? This thing have audio amplifier onboard. You don't need anything additional to watch youtube now xD
Hello to all modders, I'm happy to be here on the great board
and greetings from Germany at munich bayern
I would like to introduce my insperation through the board here
The project wedding LianLi PC7 and HP-Z600
I bought the LianLi myself in 2001-2002 and since then it has seen a lot, the last years it was only in the corner but now it gets breathed new life
For fixing a part of the mainboard screws fit original from the case only 5 new holders had to be made because I cut the original HP spacer cut the pin and cut a hole and cut 3mm / 1/8 inch thread
Unfortunately, I can not continue because I do not get two CPUs to run, I bought the board and he had only one CPU installed!
Board is a 003 so also 6 cores suitable but I get only one whether 4 or 6 cores to run
the error looks like this from the HP-Z600 goes on and I see only the top left corner in the corner of the console flash or the Blue HP logo and so it stops! do I pee the CPU1 he goes without problems who would have a tip
Bios is 3.61 on it
The last picture shows where the Z600 stops is a second CPU installed
Hello, I am new to this forum and I have just used the bios image Mr. Brown uploaded and It seems to work. A more complete description of my problem is posted here: https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/custom-dual-xeon-build-restarting-needed-a-couple-of-times-to-finally-start-up.2543896/#post-39394527 . I bought 2 Xeon X5650 cpu's a while ago and a Z800 rev. 002 to use them in, as described on Mr. Browns blog. I found out that starting up didn't go as smoothly and after a long time I read on this forum and the comments that it had to do with the software on the bios chip. So I bought a CH341A bios programmer and five SST 25VF016B IC's on Aliexpress and flashed the new bios chip with the software posted in this thread. I used a tool from this page: https://tosiek.pl/ch341-eeprom-and-spi-flash-programmer/ and I installed the drivers with Snappy Driver Installer. Something I noted was that the software says wrongfully how to place the chip in the programmer. The notch of the chip needs to be turned 180 degrees, otherwise it won't work in this case. To conclude, I unsoldered the old bios chip as insurance and soldered in the new one in and it seems to work, as it hasn't done anything weird in 5-10 boot ups. It needs more testing of course and I'm rendering a difficult 3D-scene right now to stress test it (as I don't want the new bios to cause instability or something). This is no hardware mod, as it is wrongfully called, but a software mod. I had to replace the bios, because it was difficult to flash it with the motherboard, but the only thing I changed is some software on the bios chip.