Friends I am using ho z800 PC my default PSU damage I bought new PSU Thermaltake 1000w through power and I buy main power cable 18 pin connector in Ali Express and I attached PSU and start the pc but showing 4 time beep and not start pc but I removed my hdd PC working perfect.i don't know what happened this issue plz help me.i attached hdd in PC always showing 4 time beep.and removed hdd working perfectly.plz solve this my issue thanks
Hi Andy, I'm new here, having seen one of "your" reflow boards demonstrated at the Newbury Radio Rally yesterday. Very impressive! I'd like to have a go at building one, but at the moment I don't have the time (I'm retired, so have no time to spare! :-)
I did notice one thing in the video, though: it looks like you're using an IEC *input* (C14, plug) for the connection to the oven, when it should be an output (C13, socket) - otherwise you could have unshielded pins with live mains on. Or is it an oprical illusion in the video?
Now just swap the connections between A1 and A2 pins of the triac and it will work. Not recommended though, I have ended up with these very close wire-to-pin cases. So it kind of works, aside from three times smoking, the strange noises, and huge initial latency my quartz oven has. It comes up to speed afterwards, I guess I'll have to tweak the PID. And the everything else.
Ok, fixed that one. It was an error in my electrical scheme. I have got temperature, what I haven't got is power on the oven terminals. Reflow session begins and 0V reads over those terminals. When I take out the oven wires from the oven PCB terminal block I can read 135 - 140V in or out of reflow session. The oven works fine when applying power directly over its wires, and the logic side driving the MOC3020 also appears to work (i.e. checked for voltage on the Q1's collector: it is 83 mV, so it is saturated). Now what ? ...
I have now put in the 8 MHz crystal and got bluetooth working. Also got a second thermocouple; they both seem to have the same problem "gnd short". Checked for T+ / T- for shorts to GND; nothing came up. The resistance between T+ and T- I have found to be 11 ohm if it is of any importance. For brief moments there actually is a temperature reading on Android if I fiddle with the connector lugs. Most of the times I fiddle with them and still just "gnd short". Any clues ?
Checked with a DMM (steady 0V, no fluctuations) and the MCU is not driving the transistor -> optocoupler -> ultimately triac. Of the top of my head MCU should drive the triac if - asked to do so from rot_enc; - it has proper zero cross detection (checked with logic analyzer; it does) - it has proper SPI comm and good type K thermocouple & wiring
The SPI is good (LCD is functional) + checked for continuity on all 3 wires (MAX31855 <-> MCU). Now about this thermocouple.... ebayer sold it to me as type K but from what I gather it should have had a magnetized cathode, which it does not - i.e. neither of it stwo wires will stick to a magnet. Maybe it ain't a K-type TC and that's what bothers the whole system ? I seldom see any temperature on the LCD as the screen is covered by "Err 2 No link or similar, but I have seen 27, 0, and 55 degrees C on it, and I think nothing else. Checked with DMM for voltage and the the TC does respond with some milliVolts upon heating thoroughly and some 1-2 minutes latency (from time of heater switch off to actually seeing it decrease in voltage). Tomorrow I shall get my hands on a new TC, hopefully of K type and report back. If any hints please share,