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March 29, 2020, 05:24:48 am

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31
Hardware projects / A development board for the ST...
Last post by Andy Brown - July 13, 2019, 10:22:18 am
I've recently built a development board for the new STM32G081RBT6 MCU featuring the Cortex M0+ core.



There's a full write up here and a video on YouTube that you can watch.
32
General discussion / Re: Help me in HP z800 worksta...
Last post by Ultimate GaMerZ - July 06, 2019, 08:46:59 am
Thanks for reply Sir .I read manual and check all thing in board and fixes all issue removs all devices but not fix issue without hdd working perfectly.but I connect power wire in hdd or and DVD no sata wire only power wire .and problem show me .I uploaded my PC issue video here plz check Andy Sir.i update already new bios this Version: 3.61 Rev.A  Release date:Mar 6, 2018.my board Rev: 003
https://support.hp.com/us-en/drivers/selfservice/swdetails/hp-z800-workstation/3718645/swItemId/wk-207280-1

https://vimeo.com/346544447


33
General discussion / Re: Help me in HP z800 worksta...
Last post by Andy Brown - July 06, 2019, 04:18:54 am
Hi, HP's "beep decoder" document is here:

https://support.hp.com/gb-en/document/c03599666

Four beeps = a problem with the power. Unfortunately they don't offer further debugging steps. Thermaltake are well known, quality brand so I expect your new PSU is fine.

When your old PSU died do you think that there is a possibility it fried something on the board at the same time?
34
General discussion / Help me in HP z800 workstation
Last post by Ultimate GaMerZ - July 06, 2019, 02:03:56 am
Friends I am using ho z800 PC my default PSU damage I bought new PSU Thermaltake 1000w through power and I buy main power cable 18 pin connector in Ali Express and I attached PSU and start the pc but showing 4 time beep and not start pc but I removed my hdd PC working perfect.i don't know what happened this issue plz help me.i attached hdd in PC always showing 4 time beep.and removed hdd working perfectly.plz solve this my issue thanks






35
Hardware projects / Re: An easy to build android/b...
Last post by Andy Brown - June 25, 2019, 01:00:21 am
Hi Howard, yes you are right I used the wrong gender connector there and didn't warn others not to do the same.
36
Hardware projects / Re: An easy to build android/b...
Last post by HDRW - June 24, 2019, 09:29:47 am
Hi Andy, I'm new here, having seen one of "your" reflow boards demonstrated at the Newbury Radio Rally yesterday.  Very impressive!
I'd like to have a go at building one, but at the moment I don't have the time (I'm retired, so have no time to spare!  :-)

I did notice one thing in the video, though:  it looks like you're using an IEC *input* (C14, plug) for the connection to the oven, when it should be an output (C13, socket) - otherwise you could have unshielded pins with live mains on.  Or is it an oprical illusion in the video?

73,

Howard  G1BYY
37
Hardware projects / Re: An easy to build android/b...
Last post by kellogs - June 04, 2019, 04:09:48 pm
Now just swap the connections between A1 and A2 pins of the triac and it will work. Not recommended though, I have ended up with these very close wire-to-pin cases. So it kind of works, aside from three times smoking, the strange noises, and huge initial latency my quartz oven has. It comes up to speed afterwards, I guess I'll have to tweak the PID. And the everything else.
38
Hardware projects / Re: An easy to build android/b...
Last post by kellogs - June 03, 2019, 11:53:57 am
Ok, fixed that one. It was an error in my electrical scheme. I have got temperature, what I haven't got is power on the oven terminals. Reflow session begins and 0V reads over those terminals. When I take out the oven wires from the oven PCB terminal block I can read 135 - 140V in or out of reflow session. The oven works fine when applying power directly over its wires, and the logic side driving the MOC3020 also appears to work (i.e. checked for voltage on the Q1's collector: it is 83 mV, so it is saturated). Now what ? ...
39
Hardware projects / Re: An easy to build android/b...
Last post by kellogs - June 02, 2019, 06:48:38 am
I have now put in the 8 MHz crystal and got bluetooth working. Also got a second thermocouple; they both seem to have the same problem "gnd short". Checked for T+ / T- for shorts to GND; nothing came up. The resistance between T+ and T- I have found to be 11 ohm if it is of any importance. For brief moments there actually is a temperature reading on Android if I fiddle with the connector lugs. Most of the times I fiddle with them and still just "gnd short". Any clues ?

Thank you
40
Hardware projects / Re: An easy to build android/b...
Last post by kellogs - May 30, 2019, 03:24:33 pm
Alright, I'll be needing some help please.

Checked with a DMM (steady 0V, no fluctuations) and the MCU is not driving the transistor -> optocoupler -> ultimately triac. Of the top of my head MCU should drive the triac if
- asked to do so from rot_enc;
- it has proper zero cross detection (checked with logic analyzer; it does)
- it has proper SPI comm and good type K thermocouple & wiring

The SPI is good (LCD is functional) + checked for continuity on all 3 wires (MAX31855 <-> MCU). Now about this thermocouple.... ebayer sold it to me as type K but from what I gather it should have had a magnetized cathode, which it does not - i.e. neither of it stwo wires will stick to a magnet. Maybe it ain't a K-type TC and that's what bothers the whole system ?
I seldom see any temperature on the LCD as the screen is covered by "Err 2 No link or similar, but I have seen 27, 0, and 55 degrees C on it, and I think nothing else. Checked with DMM for voltage and the the TC does respond with some milliVolts upon heating thoroughly and some 1-2 minutes latency (from time of heater switch off to actually seeing it decrease in voltage). Tomorrow I shall get my hands on a new TC, hopefully of K type and report back. If any hints please share,

Thank you!
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